Italy (Rome-Florence-Venice-Pompeii-Capri) - June 2001

We'd considered going to Italy on our honeymoon but decided that we'd want to see too much to truly make it a relaxing vacation.  So we were lucky enough to go to Italy the following year.  Given that this was Tamara's first trip to Europe, we wanted to hit all the hot spots, and save some others for future vacations (hopefully).  We decided to spend a week touring Rome, Florence, and Venice, before meeting the rest of the Gruber family in Capri for a week, stopping at Pompeii along the way. 

Roma

We arrived in Rome on June 2nd and checked into Hotel Quirinale.  After a brief rest, we decided to explore.  Tamara already caught her first glimpse of the Coliseum on the taxi ride from the airport but we were both amazed by the mixing of history and modernism around every corner.  We both loved Rome, finding it charming how you never knew what piazza or fountain was right around the corner.  The blend of ancient Rome, renaissance, and the cafe and scooter lifestyles was very enticing. 

On our first afternoon we took in the sights of the Monument for Victorio Emmanuele, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, and the Via Condotti.  After a late dinner at a tourist trap near the Spanish Steps (Re degli Amici), we returned exhausted.  On our second day we tried to get into the Coliseum but the line was too long (maybe next time!).  Instead we spent time wandering the Roman Forum and the Capatoline Museums.  In the afternoon we stopped in at Piazza Navona for some tartufo at Tre Scalini.  After a nap, we went to Conte di Galluccio for dinner.  Much better than the night before!! Ah, how we love Italian food. 

By day three jetlag hit Tamara hard and we slept in.  In the afternoon, we took a quick tour of the Vatican Museums and got to see the Sistine Chapel before it closed.  Truly beautiful but also a lot to take in.  Dizzy from hunger we found a local pizzarria and made a new friend...Davido.  Later that afternoon, we explored St. Peter's Basilica, which is an indescribable work of art.  For dinner we ended up again at a tourist trap, although this one had been recommended to us, Picolo Mundo.  Even tourist food isn't bad in Rome though!

After a quick tour of the Galleria Borghese in the morning, we caught a train to Firenze (Florence) to start the second leg of our trip.

Firenze

After a beautiful train ride (running late of course) through the Italian countryside, we arrived in Firenze and checked into Hotel Bernini.  We quickly left to explore the shopping district and before we knew it, we were on the other side of town. Florence is much smaller than Rome and if it wasn't for Tamara's sense of direction, we would have been on our way to Sienna. ;) (Sorry Glenn, had to mention it).  After dinner at Bibo, we saw the full moon from the Ponte Vecchio over the Arno river. 

On our rainy second day in Florence, we did some shopping and visited the St. Croce church.  Simple in design, this church was very different from those we saw in Rome.  We stumbled into an amazing restaurant called Hosteria Ganino and had a delicious lunch of pappa al pomodoro, gnocchi with butter and sage, and fried Zucchini flowers.  Yummy! Now that's Italian!  In the afternoon we took in the art of the Uffizi Galleries, then found another terrific "hole in the wall" place for dinner, Osteria Vini e Vecchio Sapori. 

We filled our third day with the highlights of Florence.  First we were awed by the David in the Galleria de Accaddemia, then went to the Palazzo Medici, and the Mucato Centrale (produce market).  Then we went to the Duomo, where, after huffing and puffing our way to the top, Glenn experienced a bout of fear of heights and took in the view from the back while Tamara ventured to the rail to take some amazing pictures of Florence and the Tuscan countryside. 

In the afternoon, we went to the Florentine Synagogue, the oldest in Italy.   Tired from the day and craving something different to eat, we brought in some hamburgers and packed for Venice.

Venezia

We arrived late in Venice, due to another train delay.  But we found we really didn't miss much.  Venice was our least favorite city and probably wouldn't go back.  It was mysterious and enchanting, and we are sure it can be romantic, but we found it crowded and classless.  After checking into the Metropole Hotel, we walked to the Rialto Bridge, and took a rip-off gondola (although still glad we did it) through the small canals to the grand canal and back. 

The next day, we went to St. Marco's Basilica, where we were overwhelmed with the gold and jewel encrusted ceiling and mosaics, but taken aback by the gift shop inside.  Tired of exploring museums, instead we walked the streets and did some shopping for the rest of the day.  After dinner, we enjoyed the sights and sounds of St. Mark's Square, then prepared to move on the following day. 

Pompeii

After flying from Venice to Naples, we were greeted at the airport by a driver, who took us to Pompeii before dropping us at the dock in Sorrento to catch the ferry to Capri.  In Pompeii, we explored the ancient ruins, amazed by how much they were able to uncover and learn about this ancient civilization.  Back in the car, we headed down the coast for Sorrento to meet the rest of the Grubers in Capri.  Nearly missing the boat, we were about to take off when we saw our luggage was still on the dock.  Calling down to get them to bring it on board, we watched in fear as our bags, with all our valuables, were tossed aboard.  After a beautiful trip across the water to the Island of Capri, we were surprised to find Amy, Beth and Gary also on-board and joined them for our quick ride of the funicular and walk to the hotel. 

Capri

Ah Capri.  I'm not sure we've seen a more beautiful and relaxing place.  It was a pleasure to join Ellen and Arnold and have them show us the island and town they have been visiting for years.  For the next five days, we spent our mornings by the pool, our afternoons shopping, and our evenings having some of the best food on earth.  It is an experience we cherish and hope to repeat in the future. 

But the end came too soon and we were on the ferry back to Naples, for our flight to Rome, and our long trip back to New York.  Ciao Italia!

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